We used a combination of Navionics, paper charts, OpenCPN and satellite images with a separate GPS puck for location on the image. The OpenCPN was run separately on a laptop so it was independent of the boat’s navigation equipment providing an alternate source of verification and view of position relative to hazards. The anchorages are often deep (20m-plus) so it’s important to have enough chain and a good knowledge of anchoring to avoid coral bommies and other reef hazards. We also kept to the general rule of only moving the boat between 9am and 3pm with good weather and sun so we could spot any hazards along the way. Our sailing in Fiji was quite conservative because of this but there was no shortage of stunning scenery, coral, fish, diving and beaches. The people are amazing and light up instantly with “Bula!” We anchored in sand at Malolo Island, home of Musket Cove. There are several resorts on this island and its proximity to the main island makes it very popular — especially with the magical sunsets seen from the anchorage. At times there must have been 70 or more boats here! The Musket Cove resort allows cruisers to use the facilities ashore for a lifetime membership of FJ$10 and also hosts the annual Musket Cove Regatta. After re-provisioning in Denarau Marina, we set off for the Yasawas — the most western island chain in Fiji. Stunning coral, diving and clear water, sandy beaches and resorts are features of this group. Each island is quite different and it is customary to go ashore and introduce yourself to the Chief of each island to ask permission to anchor and give a gift: this is called ‘Sevusevu’ and is often not necessary at a resort anchorage. We set off across the bay from Nadi to Wayasewa Island. This picturesque bay is one of the quintessential spectacular sites with villages ashore, sandy beaches and soaring mountaintops providing great shelter from the prevailing tradewinds. After paying our respects ashore, we hiked to the top of Wayasewa and took some spectacular photos of the bay laid our below — see image on opposite page. Our next stop up the Yasawa island chain was Drawaqa Island. This is home to the famous Manta Ray Pass where manta rays feed, usually around the time of the full moon and close to high tide. This was to become our favorite anchorage: the pass between Drawaqa and Naviti islands is a massive coral garden extending almost the entire way between the islands. The tropical fish are so abundant that, when you get in the water, schools of fish curve around you on their way along what we called the ‘fish highways.’ There are a number of resorts close by so it becomes obvious when there might be manta rays in the pass because all the longboats rush out with guests aboard. At 7.30 one morning, we heard a number of boats going to the pass and were rewarded with the most spectacular viewing of up to five manta rays feeding and gliding through the water. We were to anchor at this island twice more during our time in the Yasawas and were lucky enough to see the mantas each time. We continued north to Nacula Island and more spectacular coral snorkeling. From this island there are tours available to the famous Sawa-i-lau caves on the next island. We hadn’t read much about this before going and found when we got there that there would be an underwater traverse with snorkeling gear to access the inner caves. This of course was a little bit challenging but worth the trip: the main attraction is the outer cave which is spectacular. It wasn’t far — about 4m long and around 2m underwater — then we popped out in the inner caves and our guides took us through to the end and told stories about the origins of the cave. Towards the end of September, it became obvious that the weather patterns were changing. Being long-time residents of Queensland, we are wary of the summer weather patterns of the tropics so we decided it was time to start planning the passage home via Vanuatu. 70 Mainsheet 2024 Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron Yearbook South Pacific cruising
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